Inkle 101 Part 6 Inkle Weaving With Patterns

Part 6 – Inkle Weaving With Patterns

The inkle weave in itself is a master. Row after row of the offset warp presents a pattern all it's own. Adding vertical stripes of color enhance the appearance where the band starts to come to life. We are not stopping here, we are going to make the band have a say. Let's let the band speak to us, let's add some patterns.

After completing this Part 6, You will be able to use a pattern draft to layout a pattern for your band. You will be able to use this information, along with your knowledge of adding color and basic inkle weaving skills, to create a colorful patterns in your inkle band. The only limitation would be you imagination.

Let's first review a little on the warp threads.

There are two sets of warp threads. The set warped in the heddle position and the set warped in the open position. It is usually best to start your bands with a warp thread in the heddle position and end with a warp thread in the heddle position. This is not a real requirement, as long as you alternate each warp. Just one way to help balance a piece.

FYI - The yarn is called warp threads after the yarn is warped on the loom.

FYI – Piece is in reference to a work of art.

As you weave, what you are doing is presenting either the heddle threads or the open threads to the front of the band. When you pass the weft through the shed, you are locking that weft in that position. And when you change the shed, you are presenting the other heddle thread. So what you have when done weaving is a set of presented heddle warp threads locked to the front of the band then a set of presented warp threads locked to the front of the band, all of which continues over and over.

Each time the shed is changed, you are pulling a different set of warp threads to the front and locking them into position. We will use this as the basis behind the inkle design pattern. Before we continue you need to understand two things. We are still not manipulating the warp threads. And we are also only using the weft to lock a set of warp threads to the front.

The patterns that we can make are somewhat limited using the methods to be show. But the combination of these patterns can create an abundant of designs. To repeat ourselves: A pattern is a recurring set, and a combination of patters form a design. Let's continue.

There are three basic patterns that can be easily achieved on the inkle loom, and all without manipulating the warp. Again, we are not using the word design for we are not designing but laying out a pattern that will be repeated throughout the weave. The three patterns are a vertical bar or stripe, a horizontal bar or stripe, and a checker or checks. You can achieve numerous designs by mixing and sizing these 3 basic patterns. Adding color will give endless possibilities.

These three patterns will be produced by only changing the color of the warp as we are warping the loom. You should know how to change colors from Part 5. You will be doing the same thing except in an order that will yield a pattern. Once this is done we only have to weave normally and the pattern will surface, like magic, and repeat over and over.

Note, for the rest of this course we will use:

stripe - for the vertical stripe or bar pattern
bar – for the horizontal bar or stripe pattern
check – for the checker or checks pattern

The Pattern Draft

As a beginner it is best to use a pattern draft. It's a simple layout which gives a road map on what color is to be warped and when. You will create the pattern on paper and simple transfer the pattern to the loom. The pattern draft is a graphical representation of a pattern. An example of what a pattern draft may look like.

This pattern draft above is using only 2 colors, black and white. You can produce all the patterns possible using this simple technique. The bar, stripe, and check patterns. You are not limited to 2 colors, the example is only using 2. And you can use the top row as the open and the bottom as the heddle. Just be consistent and mark the Pattern Draft which is which.

Let's take a closer look at a different pattern draft and how it relates to the warp threads in producing the possible patterns. Look at the example below. Each part is identified as to its purpose. Each pair of vertical blocks represents one warp thread. On the example, the upper block represents the warp in the heddle position and the lower block represents the warp in the open position. As you read the pattern draft left to right, you are seeing the color changes of the warp.

Let's read the above pattern draft and put it into words.

We are starting with a black warp in the heddle position.
Next, warp is black in the open position.
Next, warp is black in the heddle position.
Next, warp is black in the open position.

These first four warps are used to create our selvege, background color, and will be the same color as the weft.

Next, warp is white in the heddle position.
Next, warp is white in the open position.

Next, warp is black in the heddle position.
Next, warp is black in the open position.

Next, warp is white in the heddle position.
Next, warp is white in the open position.
Next, warp is white in the heddle position
Next, warp is white in the open position.

Next, warp is black in the heddle position.
Next, warp is black in the open position.

Next, warp is white in the heddle position.
Next, warp is white in the open position.

These last four warps are used to create the ending selvege of the band.

Next, warp is black in the heddle position.
Next, warp is black in the open position.
Next, warp is black in the heddle position.
Next, warp is black in the open position.

What is the result of the pattern draft? Can you determine the result? The first 4 black warps is to create the selvege and set the background to black. The first two white warps creates a thin white stripe down the left side of the band. The next 2 black bands resets the background. The next 4 white warps is to create a wider white stripe down the center of the band. The next 2 black warps resets the background. The next 2 white warps creates a thin white stripe down the right side of the band. And then the the band is ended with selvege of 4 black warps. Don't worry about the last warp being in the heddle position.

To create the thinnest vertical line is by using a pair of warp threads, one heddle and one open. The line will not be straight due to the nature of the inkle weave. If you were to use just one warp, it would create a dashed vertical line. The width can be any size you choose and of any color. In the above example, we reset the background color as a way to separate the white stripes.

Now let's take another example. Examine the example below and then follow our interpretation. See if you can determine the result.

Reading from left to right we get:

We are starting with a black warp in the heddle position.
Next, warp is black in the open position.
Next, warp is black in the heddle position.
Next, warp is black in the open position.

Next, warp is black in the heddle position.
Next, warp is black in the open position.
Next, warp is black in the heddle position.
Next, warp is black in the open position.

As you can see we started out with a selvege of 4 black warps, then we warped all the heddle warps in white and all the open warps in black. We finished with 4 black warps. This creates a black background with a horizontal white stripe.

Now on to the last pattern on our list, the check. The pattern draft example is below. Read the draft and compare to our reading to see how you have done. Take your time.

Reading from left to right we get:

We are starting with a black warp in the heddle position.
Next, warp is black in the open position.
Next, warp is black in the heddle position.
Next, warp is black in the open position.

Next, warp is white in the heddle position.
Next, warp is black in the open position.
Next, warp is white in the heddle position.
Next, warp is black in the open position.
Next, warp is white in the heddle position.
Next, warp is white in the open position.
Next, warp is black in the heddle position.
Next, warp is white in the open position.
Next, warp is black in the heddle position.
Next, warp is white in the open position.
Next, warp is white in the heddle position.
Next, warp is black in the open position.
Next, warp is white in the heddle position.
Next, warp is black in the open position.
Next, warp is white in the heddle position.
Next, warp is white in the open position.
Next, warp is black in the heddle position.
Next, warp is white in the open position.
Next, warp is black in the heddle position.
Next, warp is white in the open position.

Next, warp is black in the heddle position
Next, warp is black in the open position.
Next, warp is black in the heddle position.
Next, warp is black in the open position.

To view the three patters, as seen in the eyes of the pattern draft, click on me.

Great job, now you know the secrete to creating patterns on the inkle loom. All done without manipulating the warp threads, just changing their colors. Now go play around with the pattern draft and come up with a set of pattern combinations, add some different colors in the mix, and watch the magic happen as you weave.

Free Pattern Draft

Always try to record your work. We have a form you can download that will make life easy for you. It's free to download and use. An example is shown to our right. It's easy to understand and use. Why trust your memory.

Terms You Should Know

pattern draft - a graphical representation of an inkle pattern or patterns

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This page was last modified on Monday, October 10, 2011 07:19:39 PM