Part 4 – Inkle Weaving Basics

We will be showing the simple procedure of warping the loom and starting the weave.  Discuss the weaving process, advancing the warp and ending the weave.  All along we will help you develop good habits and avoiding pitfalls.  After you have completed this part you will be able to warp an inkle loom, wind the shuttle, start, weave, and end a basic inkle band.

Note: The demonstrations will show some very large threads (rope).  This is so you can see in better detail what is being done.

Basic Weaving

The reason why we are calling this "Basic Weaving" on the inkle loom is because you will not be manipulating any warp threads in the weaving process.  That will be covered in another course.

By now you should know your way around the inkle loom.  And you have selected the perfect yarn to get you started.  The next step will be to warp the inkle loom and wind the shuttle.  You should use the same yarn for both the warp and the weft with no color changes or patterns to consider.  And there will only be one shuttle used.  No distractions.

You need to just concentrate on making the perfect inkle weave.  The actual process is easy to perform, the technique in getting it perfect may take a little time to master.  We will show you some helpful ways to get the weave started and keep you on track.

There is a part of the inkle loom you will have to make yourself, the heddles.  We will show you a way of making heddles that require no special measurements or devices.  This technique will work on all inkle looms and will insure both sheds, up and down, will yield the same working space.  It will also give more strength to the heddle.  Watch the video below and start making heddles.

 Making Heddles

Set the inkle loom so you have it's

open side facing you.  This will gives you easy access to make the heddles and to warp the loom.  Take the heddle yarn and pull it around the two pegs of the inkle loom as indicated.  Tie a secure knot and trim the tails.  Remove the completed heddle and set aside.  Continue making the heddles until you have enough to warp the loom.

We recommend only making 6 heddles for now.  This will allow you to have 11 warp threads to work with.  You should only weave narrow bands until you are comfortable with the process and have developed a good technique, then you can progress on to wider bands.

Breast Peg Support Removal

 

 

Now you are ready to begin to warp your inkle loom.  You will start by removing the breast peg support.  This is done by a slight twisting it with an upward movement.

Tensioner Knob

Loosen the tensioner using the tension knob to allow the paddle to be moved.  Rotate the tensioner to a 45 degree angle as shown.  Then lightly snug up the tension knob.  It will not take much tension to keep the tensioner in place.

Paddle at 45 Degrees

Starting Your Warp

You will be starting your warp at the breast peg.  About 2 inches out, on the breast peg, secure the warp thread.  No fancy knots, you will be removing the knot when you are done warping the loom.  Try using the simple knot shown in the video.  It holds well and is easily untied. 

As you go through the rest of the procedures, take your time.  If you make a mistake don't worry, you can undo what you have done and do it again.  Nothing is cut in stone on the inkle loom.

Adding A Heddle

You will be starting with a warp in the heddle position.  Place the heddle over the heddle peg as shown. Wrap the heddle around the warp and back down to the heddle peg and over the heddle peg.  Try to have the knotted end of the heddle under the heddle peg. 

Now wrap the warp through the rest of the inkle loom as indicated.  Do not pull the warp to tight as you go.  When done, you will have compleded the warp in the heddle position.

Now you will need to warp the inkle loom in the open position.  Start warping the inkle loom in the open position by watching the demonstration.

You will repeat warping the inkle loom in the heddle position and the open position until you have used all 6 of the heddles.  You will stop after you have warped the last heddle.  This will give you 6 heddle warps and 5 open warps. 

You could warp the loom first then com back and add the heddles.  That is a personal choise.  For now, add the heddles as you warp the loom.  This will eliminate any confusion.

Now cut off the yarn at a point leaving a small tail going past the breast peg.  Untie the warp thread from the breast peg where you started.  Tie these two warp ends together securely.  Now replace the breast peg support.  The crossing of the warp threads is not a problem so dont worry.  Things will fix themselves as you begin weaving.

Warping the Heritage for maximum warp length.

Even tension on the warp threads is important.  Make sure all the warp threads are evenly tensioned.  You do not want any thread tighter that the others.  Loosen the paddle tensioner a little and press down on the warp threads at the shed area a few times.  This will allow the warp to even itself out and allow even tension.  Now adjust the tensioner to apply slight tension to the warp threads.  You might have to apply more tension if the warp moves when you are beating in the weft.

Before you begin to weave, you will get a little help by adding string to the warp threads.  Adding this string will bunch together the warp threads that were warped in the heddle position and bunch the warp threads that were warped in the open position.  This will be done just past the breast peg.  This is to assist the beginner in starting the weave.  It will help place the warps side by side giving the first weave it's proper width.  Watch the demonstration to see this in action.  You can remove the string later.  If you feel you do not need this added assistance, by all means don't.  We do feel it will help you in getting it right the first time.

You start by tieing off the yarn to the shuttle.  You can just wrap the yarn around the shuttle or you could wrap it around the shuttle in a figure eight pattern.  Some don't waste time with tieing the weft to the shuttle.  Watch the demonstration.

You have the inkle loom warped, the heddles in place, and the shuttle is loaded and ready.  Now it's time to start weaving.  The basic weaving process only has a few steps and they are repeated over and over until the desired lenght is reached.  The only time you will vary from this process is when you start and end the weave.  There is just a couple of steps to add at the beginning and at the end.

At the beginning you will leave a tail of weft thread behind as you pass the inkle shuttle through the shed.  This extra thread will be added back into the next one or two sheds to secure the end.  Watch the demonstration on starting a weave and weaving.

You can see that the process is easy.  Push the open warp threads up creating an up shed.  Beat the weft and pass the shuttle through, tension the weft to pull the warp threads parallel and snug.  Push the open warp threads down creating a down shed.  Beat the weft and pass the shuttle through.  Repeat, repeat, and repeat.  The only thing that you have to pay attention to is the tension on the weft thread.  Snug enough to make sure the warp is parallel and you cannot see the weft threads between them, and not to tight as to distort the weft threads by smashing them together.

Find the proper tension to place on the weft that works best and be consistent throughout the band.  Changing tension on the weft will create uneven edges.  Every type of yarn has a different tension requirement.  So for now, practise with just your chosen yarn.  Get the feel for it as you progress through the band. 

With just a little weaving you will soon be at the end of the band.  We kept the warp short so you could quickly see how you were doing and start another inkle band making any changes you think need to be made.

As you were weaving you should have noticed that the warp threads were getting shorter and shorter.  That is why there is a tensioner, to remove this excessive tension.  This warp shortening is called take up.  So as you weave and the warp is getting to tight, loosen the warp tension by adjusting the warp tensioner.

Also as you weave your shed area is getting shorter and less warp to weave on.  Loosen the warp tensioner and advance the warp to give yourself some fresh area to weave.  Then adjust the warp tensioner.  To much warp tension will streatch and distort the warp threads and they may even break.   

When you come to the point where it starts to get difficult to make a good shed and weave, and there is no more warp to advance, you are at the point where you will end your band.  To end your band, it is best to weave your weft back into the band.  You will not need any special tools to do this.  You are going to pull the weft thread back into the band using another thread.  Follow the demonstration and give it a try.

You also could use a tapestry needle to weave the weft end back into the band.  Or, after you remove the band from the loom, you could tie the weft end off with the warp threads.  This is all a personal choice and nothing to dwell on at this time.  Pick one method and stick with it until the basic weaving technique is mastered, then you can explore all the options.

Now, all you have to do is cut off your band from the inkle loom.  Loosen the warp tension.  Look for the knot were the warp threads are tied together and cut across the warp threads at this point.  Or, if you watched the video...  Remove your band from the loom.  Do not throw away your heddles, they are re-useable.

You have a choice at this point on what type of ends you will leave on the band.  For now, just make a straight cut across the warp about 4 to 6 inches from each end of the band.

Your first inkle band is now completed.  It's either a masterpiece or an old dishrag, you be the judge.  What ever the opinion you may have on your weaving, just remember, you are your own best critic.  You know if you were paying attention to your weaving.  You know if you could do better.  Take your time to get the feel of things.  Practice makes perfect.  You are hand weaving, and it's in your hands.

Never leave tension on the warp threads when you are not weaving.  This will cause the pegs to bend and the warp to streach and break.  So, when the loom is not being used, loosen the weft tensioner.

Terms You Should Know

down shed - moving the open weft threads down past the heddle position

heddle peg - the peg were the heddle strings are attached

heddles - holds a set of warp threads in position in creating a shed

take up - the shortening of the weft threads duing weaving

masterpiece - your first inkle band

inkle shuttle - device to hold and beat the weft

up shed - moving the open weft threads up past the heddle position

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This page was last modified on Saturday, February 11, 2012 11:49:37 PM